Entries Tagged as 'Runway'

Metamorphosis Student Showcase Presented By Sportsgirl

Hotly anticipated each year is the Student Showcase, where the next generation of designers give us a glimpse into the future of fashion. Many designers utilised unusual construction methods that ultimately restricted the use of the body in one form or another, from trapped arms, tied up wrists,  to tightly bound legs. The beauty of the showcase is that the designers do not have to be commercial because they don’t need to sell anything yet. This was reflected in the collections where the sometimes unwearable designs were testaments only to the vision and talent of the designer and were true artistic expressions.

As there was a large volume of designers in this show so I am only posting my top five favourites.

Georgia Lazzaro
Lazzaro opened the showcase with long, distorted shillouettes, utilising strange shapes, high necklines and full length dresses to extend the figure in an almost grotesque manner.

Christiana Livaditis
Arguably the highlight of the showcase, Livaditis’ thought provoking designs were captivating and intriguing. Highly theatrical, this collection was a visual treat for runway-goers. Overly exaggerated elements and creative binding in between the legs and between the hands, many elements were designed to restrain the model creating the need to walk and move in particular ways whilst wearing the garments. The implication of these elements take this collection out of the realm of mere clothing or costume design and into the category of wearable art.

Jacqueline Tyrell
This pretty and coherent collection was refreshing change for the showcase, drawing on a light colour palette of lavender and beige. Although very loosely tailored, the range remained feminine, and was very commercially viable compared to her contemporaries.

Olivia Jung
Another departure from the majority of designers, Jung’s collection revolved around electric blues and greens. The thread work and metallic embellishments in this collection were an exemplification of Jung’s raw talent, expressing her bold vision whilst remaining wearable – a feat that will ensure this designer crosses over from student to star.

Prufrock. by Ellie Mayer
Attention to detail was key in Mayer’s collection with little embellishments adding surprise and delight. Ultra-femme with layers of ruffles, and sheer elements, the pieces tapped into the lingerie as outerwear trend by having a distinct boudoir feel whilst remaining elegant.

L’Oreal Paris Runway 2 Presented By Vogue

Romance Was Born
Known for their outrageous and sometimes even unwearable designs, I was pleasantly surprised by their AW10 collection. Inspired by the hedonistic lifestyle lead by wealthy investors in the 1980s, the range featured American $1 bill embellishment, outrageous shoulders and a wide variety of colours. My favourite piece was the horrendously oversized blazer with the sheer back.

Ellery
Knowing what her customers love, Ellery delivered a collection of signature blazers, beautifully cut dresses, and sweet little shorts. As I commented on twitter during the show – I don’t know who wears little shorts and strappy dresses during winter, but if this is how it goes down in Elleryland then I want to live there.

Friedrich Gray
Moody and minimalist, the AW10 collection for Friedrich Gray was a palette of blacks, blues and greys.  Utilising his famous digital prints, the range consisted of fantastic leggings, bodycon dresses and was peppered with pieces of odd proportions. The highlight was a stunning hand knitted maxi-dress that is, naturally, not a production piece.

ANT!PODiUM
The quirkiness we’ve come to expect from the London based label is back again for AW10. Featuring a combination of wearable casuals and stand-out pieces in unusual prints and textures, the neutral palette was complimented with shades of lolly pink.  I was confused and amused to see several models walking the runway with what appeared to be giant knitted lizards wrapped around their necks.

Arnsdorf
Quintessentially Arnsdorf, this AW10 collection featured a lot of relaxed tailoring and a sweet colour palette with accents of punchy burgundy that I adored.

Gary Bigeni
Featuring beautifully draped and deconstructed dresses and tops, Bigeni’s AW10 collection has sports-luxe vibe. Tapping in to a light palette that feels more spring-summer than autumn-winter, this collection will stay fresh even when the weather goes sour.

Dion Lee
Beautifully cohesive, Lee’s AW10 collection was a spectacle of detailing, with space-age silver embellishments and clever cut-away elements. Just after the runway event Lee was announced the 2010 winner of the prestigious Woolmark Designer Award. Previous winners include designers Friedrich Gray and Romance Was Born, with whom Lee shared the runway.

Therese Rawsthorne
I’ve often found Rawthorne’s work a little too girly for my tastes, but her AW10 collection really resonated with me. Featuring slightly relaxed cuts but still flatteringly feminine, the range is wearable and versatile, with many pieces designed to have an easy transition from work to bar. Another neutral colour pallette – blacks, winter whites and greys peppered with pale blues and beige – signifies a strong trend for AW10 across the board.

Dislocation

It’s not a secret that I’m an unapologetic fan-girl of Australian fashion label Friedrich Gray. After reading about the label in Vogue (Friedrich Gray designer Ben Pollitt had just won the highly acclaimed Woolmark New Designer Award) I was instantly struck by the moody, androgynous collection and immediately sought more information. A local answer to designers like Helmut Lang and Rick Owens, the label encompassed everything I was loving about fashion at a crucial point in my sartorial evolution.

Imagine my delight and surprise when a representative from the label sent me a message early last week to see if I was free to attend the exclusive premiere screening of Friedrich Gray’s first fashion film, Dislocation. The film is an accompaniment to the AW 2010 trans seasonal collection of the same name. Directed by Tim Richardson and starring Emma Balfour and Cameron Peters, the short film allegorises connection amidst solitude. Typically Friedrich Gray, the minimalist cinematography and lack of dialogue poignantly captures the soul of the collection.

I took these images myself at the screening, so I apologise for the very poor quality, especially of the title shot where I managed to move my camera while shooting and cause a strange pattern with the label name.

I was very excited to get an opportunity to meet Pollitt just before the screening, where we discussed his excitement for his upcoming LMFF and RAFW runways and another artistic expression close to my heart, music. Last year Friedrich Gray models stomped down the LMFF runway to Marilyn Manson’s cover of I Put A Spell On You which, as a favourite track of mine, completely blew my mind. This year at his RAFW show he’s taking it to a more industrial place – totally befitting to the Friedrich Gray label.

Disclocation was screened with another highly anticipated short fashion film, City Limits, by cult favourite label Romance Was Born. Directed by Kris Moyes, City Limits accompanies the label’s AW10 collection, Nightmare On Wall Street. It tells the story of a fashion investor who was betrayed by her business partner with violent consequences. Humorous, over-the-top and slightly ridiculous in all the right ways, the film has an American Psycho quality that is sure to appeal to lovers of the quirky label.

Friedrich Gray’s Dislocation collection will be presented at LMFF’s L’Oreal Paris Runway 2 this coming Tuesday. Arguably LMFF’s hottest runway, it is not to be missed.

Midmouse

L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival is upon us again, or as I have affectionately nicknamed, L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Fortnight, since there is a full week of LMFF related cultural programs prior to the actual festival. I’ve attended several events most of which have taken place at the infamous Penthouse Mouse. Champions of young design, PHM is a popup shop and more, which exists just once a year for two short weeks during Fashion Fortnight.

The PHM website boasts ‘More than just a shopping location, PHM encompasses site-specific artworks, runway shows, live photo shoots and other random happenings.’ and rightly so. It’s a veritable hot spot for all things fresh and exciting in the fashion world and beyond, each year receiving record attendees  wanting to bask in the talent of Melbourne’s thriving underground design scene.

On Friday night I stalked my way into the strictly invite-only Midmouse event where the independent designers showcased during PHM’s short life cycle get an opportunity to send their life’s work down the runway.

Avant-garde finery by Queensland based label, Subfusco, was my pick of the runway. I was lucky enough to have a chat prior to the show with the label’s designer, Josh, who’s kindly agreed to let Sea Of Ghosts readers see more of his label when he returns home after LMFF.

I was also taken by the quirky pieces from Melbourne based label, From Britten.

I’m very excited to be involved with LMFF this year and I’ll be covering more shows and events in the coming week, although due to my hectic show/work schedule posts may be slightly delayed.

Moon Young Hee F2010 RTW

You know I’d never heard of Moon Young Hee but I am loving this collection more than even some of my favourite heavyweights. She’s certainly not designing anything earth-shatteringly new, but the formula works beatifully and it makes my heart race.

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Hee’s dramatic elegance is fiercely feminine which is something I’ve really pushed myself away from in the last year or so, sartorially speaking. Recently I am finding myself becoming increasingly bitter over how much more I prefer men’s fashion to women’s – but androgynous style is cut for an androgynous figure. I might not have the figure of a femme-fatale but I just can’t pull off the many “boyfriend” shapes that appeal to me.

Hee’s collection reminds me that it’s OK to wear a skirt and feel pretty, while still retaining the strong sense of aesthetic definition I’ve been craving in my wardrobe.

The Cave Dwellers

Loving Kirrily Johnston’s AW10 collection, Cave Dwellers. The collection’s moody androgyny is harmoniously composed, with each piece complimenting the others perfectly. From withdrawn minimalism to heavy avante garde layering, this versatile collection has wide appeal despite it’s strong aesthetic convictions.

My major covets are the insanely beautiful pony-hair boots that Johnston is re-releasing this season in black, and the ridiculous shaggy cardigan/jacket – which I can confirm feels like a nomadic dream when worn.
Be still my beating heart.

Helmut Lang F2010 RTW

I know they’ve been getting around, but when you see the images from Lang’s Fall 2010 RTW collection it’s easy to see why, when asked on Formspring which clothing brand I would wear exclusively for the rest of my life, I chose Helmut Lang.

Sleek, elegant, ageless – but with attitude.

Sportsgirl AW10 Preview

I was very honoured to be invited by Sportsgirl to attend their AW10 Preview runway show on Monday night in Melbourne’s Docklands.

Ebony and Hayley from Fashion Hayley.

Phoebe from Lady Melbourne and Vanessa from Hallowed Be Thy Name.

I wore a tank from K-Mart, Bandage Skirt from Kookai, Flats from Mollini and Necklaces from Alegorie.

There was a quirky and colourful dance/acrobatic performance to entertain the audience at various periods throughout the show.

It was my first runway as a media representative and a good practise for LMFF which I hope to attend as a media rep in March. Needless to say I had a bit of a struggle trying to tame my camera amidst the colourful and fast-paced conditions, and as a result mostly stuck to photographing the amazing shoes (which suited me fine).

One thing I will say for Sportsgirl is they’re probably the most “on trend” high street retailer in Australia, bringing through runway inspired styles faster than any other chain store that target’s the same demographic. As an accessophile, the highlight of the collection for me was definitely the shoes.

Thanks Sportsgirl.

Black

The top leather jacket is absolutely beautiful. The cagey, bondage characteristics in this collection are really resonating with me.

Dagmar

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Loving this elegantly deconstructed range by Dagmar – the three sister design team from Sweden.
I’ve always had a strange fondness for baggy tights, these loose black sheer leggings are wonderful. Not available in Australia yet unfortunately.