It’s sometimes difficult to critique the Independent Runway in a way that is respectful to the presenting designers – as independents they’re forced to edit their collection down to 8-10 looks. As a blogger I choose to edit those looks down to three that I feel best sum up each collection, so I can be succinct and direct when presenting what I’ve seen and my opinions on them.
When I see a collection I need to understand it. There should be a woman (or man) that you can identify who fits the story of the range. You should be able to imagine her in your head – a cheeky, childlike prankster? A glamorous femme-fatale? If a runway collection doesn’t tell a story it confuses me. Whilst it’s fair to say that many women exist with no specific ‘style’ that can be pigeon holed in this way, I believe that a designer does themselves no favours by trying to be everything to everywoman (or man).
After criticising two of the following designer’s collections after the show I was reminded that had I in fact been able to view their entire collections I may feel differently about them. This was an accurate observation and one I hope Sea Of Ghosts readers may take on board when reading my reviews. I have certainly kept it in mind while making them.
Alistair Trung
Maybe I’m just more susceptible to succumbing to current trends than I lead myself to believe, but once again I was delighted to view another dark and deconstructed collection at LMFF. Several of the minimal and androgynous looks were styled with what appeared to be full pelts (although I do hope they were faux) which gave the collection an actual AW10 authority that many designers I’ve seen thus far were seriously lacking.
Thãnh
Refreshingly simple, the range consisted of a black/grey palette of basics with a twist in the form of cable knits, ruffles, cut outs, fringing and very mild metal embellishments. Highly wearable and comfortable without sacrificing interest in design.
Lui Hon
Great to see more menswear at LMFF although Hon’s collection is probably more unisex than men’s specific. Relaxed, draped knits in shades of black, blue and white, with interesting textures of velvet and leather thrown in made this small collection a well-edited favourite of mine.
Magdalena Velveska
Welcome back mustard, it’s been a few seasons for you. This highly unflattering colour looked surprisingly appealing as it sashayed down Velveska’s AW10 runway along with cherry red, and winter’s traditional grey and black. Cinched sack-dresses, draping and pleating accompanied this season’s favourite statement shoulder in various forms.
FOOL
What I love about FOOL is the uncompromising conviction to the label’s distinct aesthetic. Featuring absolutely no black, grey or white, the label again raised it’s middle finger to everything you ought to expect from an Australian AW10 collection. Like a fruit salad; shades of citrus, apple and berry paid homage to larger-than-life Japanese street style with exaggerated volume and shape. One may argue that this is nothing new for the Prahran-based label but sometimes being quintessentially yourself is the hardest accomplishment amongst so many so-called designers constantly stealing from everyone else. Veil like headgear added whimsy while grommets and miniature pom-pom accessories completed the collection.
House Of Baulch
The second Australian accessories label to ever have a dedicated runway (the first was designer Kathryn Baulch’s previous efforts at accessories powerhouse Mimco – what a pioneer!), Baulch needed to up her ante by creating larger than life runway-specific pieces to compliment the RTW pieces in her AW10 collection, Geospektra. Like a dystopian futuristic vision from the 80s, her range of jewellery and bags are sure to delight those seeking to make a statement. Especially a fan of House Of Baulch as this label is stocked at Alegorie.
Alexi Freeman
I’m absolutely dumbfounded at this runway so much that I had to include SIX looks. I have no idea who edited this collection for runway but I hate it. As I discussed at the beginning of this post, Freeman’s runway made absolutely no sense to me. Who is this woman? How bipolar is her sense of style? I was very close to slamming the collection completely until I made the sensible decision to look up Freeman’s entire AW10 collection online. Suddenly it made sense! Here she was, a stylish and elegant woman with a playful side. Probably obsessed with the 60s as a teenager, she’s a vibrant professional who has outgrown her retro dedication but still feels the need to add mod elements into her wardrobe as a testament to her youth. This woman was not on the Independent Runway. She was hiding on Alexi Freeman’s website begging to bust-out and be her stylish self. I only hope that if Freeman is showing at RAFW he’s showing the entire range so the industry can properly appreciate what is actually a very well designed collection.
Papillon Homme
The skinny-everything look for men is championing through AW10 and I for one am not displeased. Blazers, slashed denim and casual shirts a plenty, this versatile menswear range has a business meets rock-n-roll aesthetic. Perfect if you have band practise after work.
Daniella Orlando
Orlando’s laid-back AW10 collection featuring black, plaids, riding coats, blazers and motorcycle elements screams country club rebel. Which is not something I personally want to scream, but it makes for a cohesive collection sure to appeal to jaunty princesses with something to prove.
Of Cabbages & Kings
Exaggerated shoulders and hips made for aesthetically interesting viewing at OC&K’s AW10 runway. Made up of a series of intricate origami-like folds, this considered collection is a testament to the creative vision of OC&K designer Tane Andrews. Yes, if that name is familiar it’s because he’s also a model. Too talented. I would have liked to have seen this runway styled with pieces from OC&K’s inspiring jewellery collection.
Kuwaii
This was another collection I felt was possibly poorly edited for runway – several pieces didn’t seem to make sense in the context of their surrounds. The pieces that worked made up a simple but commerically viable range of winter treats begging to be dressed up with bold accessories. Another runway seriously lacking the jewellery, runway stylist Ryan Lobo should have pinched some pieces from House Of Baulch to give this collection the kick it needed.
Kylie Hawkes
Clean-cut neutrals in mude, beige, black and grey, I need some Kylie Hawkes in my AW10 wardrobe NOW. Sleek and stylish with sweet sheer details, there’s a real element of understated femininity in this collection that I just adore.
Who Am Eye
This range of men’s casual wear has a real industrial undertone that appeals to me. A mix of great jackets, pants that aren’t denim – hooray! – and relaxed knits. Miltary tones are coming through again in this collection – a precursor of a theme that is going to explode on the high street for men and women alike.
above.
I was very lucky to attend the LMFF Business Seminar on Friday, where a very brave audience member asked Francisco Costa, the Womenswear Designer for CK Collection how he managed to avoid falling into the design pitfalls of the vulgarity of the 80s which is so popular right now. As crass and embarrassing as this question was (you could feel the audience collectively cringe and Costa himself even raised an eyebrow) , I felt that above.’s AW10 collection had a very subtle 80′s energy – but not with the vulgarity often associated with the styling of the era. The tans, beige and navy tones used throughout were a luxe combination I’m enjoying more and more each time I review the collection.
Melanie Bower
This sleek and feminine collection felt like Sass&Bide meets Alice McCall down a dark Melbourne alley. Dark tones and interesting textures, many of the garments had sneaky cut-away detailing at the back. J’adore.
Tags: LMFF, Runway by Miss Ghost
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