Designer Series 1 Runway – Highlights
Having already covered many of the collections showing at Melbourne Spring Fashion Week while I was at RAFW earlier this year – I’ll just be sharing my personal highlights of each MSFW runway.
Arnsdorf
I wasn’t able to get a pass into Arnsdorf for RAFW so this was my first time seeing the collection in person. What a visual feast of unusual textile, print and proportion! The palette of lilac, burnt pink and tan explode in the form of a digital crystalline print, while other pieces with a stiffer composition have been structured in geometric shapes also mimicking that of crystals and minerals. Beautifully cohesive, well-cut and femme without being flitty.
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Dhini
Another runway I missed at RAFW; I had open expectations and found the collection to be charming. Although not my own aesthetic, Dhini’s pieces are highly wearable as well as being thoughtfully constructed with sweet detailing that gives them propulsion. Versatile in design, the collection illustrates a modern femme fatale who could exist in any walk of life.
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Lui Hon
I find Lui Hon’s collections consistently exciting — understated, spoken like a whisper; a little sweet nothing murmured coyly in your ear. Breathless, effortless — who is this woman? A creature who moves without being seen… an angel. A succubus. She’ll steal your soul and have you thanking her for the opportunity. Sheer whites, exotic bronze and the black glittering legs that had me on my knees. J’adore.
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Gary Bigeni
Another beautifully executed range of his signature swathing minimalist silk jersey pieces were on offer for Gary Bigeni’s new collection. Pieces were complimented with lightly tailored jackets and shorts. Although emulated significantly by several other designers who shared this runway – none come close to matching Bigeni’s expert drapery that gently envelopes the female form, asserting it’s sensuality whilst never being gratuitously sexual.
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As for the lowlights — I was seriously disappointed in how many “unfinished” garments were in designer’s collections. There is no excuse for unfinished hems. Even raw hems that are designed to shred or fray should be stitched to avoid curling and unraveling. It looks cheap and lazy. You will never get my money when you can’t run a quick stitch on your hem!
I was also concerned over the general unflattering cuts on a lot of dresses. Very few women are blessed to have hips significantly narrower than their shoulders. Rectangular dresses need to be banned. Either dart that sucker or cut it with a very subtle a-line, because if this dress makes the model look bad how will it look on me? When your dress gapes across the back like a pelican’s neck it makes me wonder who you think you are to be designing clothes in the first place.
Down with unfinished hems and unflattering cuts! Let’s wear clothes that are made properly and look good!
image source: fashionising.com
Responses ( 11 )
Madeleine Louise shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 3:52 PMLui Hon is amazing! It’s such a shame there is no Brisbane stockists
And I completely agree with unfinished hems! It just looks sloppy.
anna shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 4:32 PMit is disappointing to hear that, especially since there was a 3 month gap after RAFW to properly finish any garments, ready for sale. i hope this wasn’t any designer i like, or i will be very embarrassed.
As for Lui Hon, the sequinned black tights above are now on my shopping list. loves it.
xx
Miss Ghost shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 4:37 PM@ anna – I’m under the impression the ‘unfinished’ nature of these garments are intentional – and therefore unacceptable. I won’t buy a dress from Sportsgirl with unfinished hems so there’s no way I will pay three times that for a designer dress with unfinished hems.
lucinda shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 5:10 PMGreat reviews! I hear you about those insidious rectangular dresses – generally they are unflattering and therefore unappealing. I have mixed feelings about raw hems because I have a beautiful raw hem dress. I think it depends very much on the material and the skill of the designer.
anna shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 5:55 PM@ miss ghost, ah. riiiiiight. the “distressed” look? phew. i just died a bit less from shock. but yes, totally agreed. hmm could it be that they couldn’t find an overlocker? haha.
amie shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 6:06 PMahh! i dressed zoe in the arnsdorf dress for runway 1, she was lovely!
Miss Ghost shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 6:06 PM@lucinda – I agree about the material and skill, Morrison always produce gorgeous garments with raw hems that don’t look cheap.
@ anna – Ahaha it’s not even distress it’s just cotton jersey lazily flapping about, curling up on the edge, looking cheap! Unimpressed.
Kaylene shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 6:23 PMI love Gary Bigeni!!! He’s the best!!! And when you inspect his garments closely they are really beautifully made. All the seams are bound or french seamed. It makes a HUGE difference.
personal stylist shared this comment on Sep 02 10 at 10:34 PMgood to see someone making honest comments about the collections.. i noted that there was actually some realistic hemlines at runway 2 (i.e. to the knee) which was a nice change.
Andrew shared this comment on Sep 06 10 at 3:34 PMLovely photos, Kate Peck was my favourite all week!
